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02J Case Modification for Mk1 Install

I am going to cover the install of the MK1 02j transmission mounts onto the transmission before you bolt it into the car.  The 02a installation is very similar except the shift tower, you also don’t have to drill out any case holes.

 

Here we start with a fresh mk4 TDI transmission, Code 02j, case is an EGR,

Remove the aluminum trans mount bracket if you haven’t already and the steel support bar that connects it to the case.

 

 

Next we remove the speed sensor, you will see that there is a 24mm nut under the plug of the sensor, you can remove just the top section of the speed sensor, this is what you want to do if you plan to use your mk1/2 cluster and one of our speedometer cables.

 

 

 

 

Now Remove the case bolts you see above, and replace them with the 3 bolts provided in your hardware kit, thread them until they are just starting to poke out the other side of the case,

 

 

 

 

 

Now slide the mount bracket and the half moon shim on until they are flush to the case of the transmission, once they are onto the bolts, you can thread the bolts all the way into the case,

 

 

 

 

Now start the tunnel nuts onto the threads of the bolts and run them down tight against the shim and bracket, then install the lock nut after, tighten it down against the tunnel nut.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

02J CASE MODIFICATION

If you have an 02a case you will find that these holes are not threaded, so no modification is necessary.  The 02j case however is threaded, we need to drill them out with a 25/64 bit, you can use a 3/8 and ream it or file it, but 25/64 will be the cleanest/easiest.. You are drilling threaded aluminum, so a bit of speed and very light pressure will help the bit from hanging on you.

 

DO NOT try to run this bolt into an 02j case without drilling it out first, you will crack your case and probably wreck it.. 

Ok so we’ve drilled the hole and haven’t broken our wrist.. great!  Now the bolt slides in no problem,

02A CASES, you will now install the shim in-between the upper mount and the trans case to take up the 1.5mm difference in width between the 2 cases. 

02j tower (can be used on either 02a or 02j case) , if you are running a hydraulic clutch you can keep your reverse switch, skip to tightening down the upper trans mount bolts.

If  you are running a cable clutch remove the reverse switch and install the provided delete plug, also grab the cable clutch mounting tab out of the hardware bag.

Slide the bolts from the 5th gear cover side through the mount, into the case and out the other side, if you have the cable tab slip it onto the bolts and then add the provided nuts.. tighten down, admire your work, get ready to put it onto your motor and into your mk1!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Mount Brackets used in this kit HERE

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Prepping Your ALH/BEW For a MK1 Install

I get a lot of the same questions about how to prep your motor for a mk1 install:

  • What do I need to remove ?
    • You need to remove anything you plan on deleting from the motor management system,  this could be accessories like AC or powersteering, hardware like EGR/ASV systems (check with your local regulations before removing emissions items) or possibly sensors such as MAF, Coolant Glowplugs, 02 sensor, turbo position sensors etc (please discuss this with your tuner/harness builder before you toss them in the bin)

Below I will go through some steps on how to attach our mk1 tdi motor mount onto your block, please note I am not covering this as a step by step, but more to answer the most common questions.

Use common sense, ask questions before assuming, don’t eat yellow snow..

 

ALH Motor Timing Cover Modifications 


Starting with the motor mount, this is how your bushing should be oriented before you mount it to the motor.

 

Next we see an ALH with the injection pump and tensioner removed (the pump bolts need to be removed and the outer pump sprocket are going to need to come off.  Also remove the cam gear and idlers (if you don’t know how to do a timing service on a TDI look it up BEFORE you take this apart)

 

 

The reason for taking all of this off is to remove the rear timing cover so we can trim it to allow room for the new motor mount :

Need to trim this lower corner off, you can see how deep to cut it by holding the new mount up to the 3 threaded holes on the block where the original aluminum mount bracket was bolted.  Make small cuts, its waaaay easier to take alittle more off, vs adding material back.

In the picture above you can see how the new cutout allows for a flat mounting surface across the 3 mounting holes

 

With that you can mount your motor mount to the block and you are ready to re assemble the timing components * DO NOT INSTALL THE LOWER 1″ roller and stud, yes it will clear the engine block mount, but it will hit your mk1 frame rail, DO NOT INSTALL IT, install the belt like normal and tension the belt like normal, it will be fine, there is plenty of room in the tensioner for the additional slack.

 

 

 

 

BEW Timing Cover Modifications

 

Starting with the same mount and bushing as the ALH above, you can see where the mount needs to go, you need to remove all of the timing components to get the rear timing cover off,

 

 

 

Take note of the location of the holes and the area you need to cut to get the mount bracket flush on the block

 

 

Make your cut and test fit, the mount must sit flush on the block..

Tighten the mount down once the timing cover fits around the mount bracket.  Reinstall timing components leaving out the lower 1″ roller just like the ALH.

ALH and BEW OUTER COVER

You can see in the first picture the timing cover is very close to the mount bushing, which means it will hit the frame mount on your mk1, it needs to be trimmed flush with the belt (the second picture shows a slight over trimming honestly but it will still be ok, you will also need to trim the upper cover slightly on both the BEW and ALH..

Engine mount being used can be found here 

TDI Mk1 Swap kit can be found here

Again if you have questions on how something goes, shoot an email, watch a youtube video, something other than assuming..

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1984 GTI – Grayson’s Ladder Charity Car

Let me start by saying if you haven’t been able to meet Grayson, please head over to https://graysonsladder.org/ and meet the man that spurred all of this.

I met Grayson shortly after my wife began working with his mother Laura in a Chattanooga heart surgeons office.  What always amazes me is even after being around him for several years, every time I see him, his laugh and smile are still just as infectious as the first time I met him.

I won’t spend alot of time covering what Alexanders Disease is, you can read all about that on the Grayson’s ladder site linked above.  I will just say that I love this family, and will continue to support them and their cause in anyway possible.

On that note in 2019 I asked Laura if we could build a car to be raffled and the proceeds would go directly to their charity..  She gave me the ok, and we planned to have it ready for the 2020 Annual fundraiser…. see where this story is going.. 2020 didn’t allow an annual fundraiser, so the car got put on the back burner, which worked out ok.. we got a few more vendors involved, more unique items for the build etc.

What we built is a 1984 Rabbit GTI, fitted with a 1998 VR6 engine and transmission, and V9 supercharger for good measure.. Full build details are listed below…

We had a good shell that had a driver quality respray some time ago, we cut and buffed the exterior, resprayed some thin areas in the bay but really didn’t go nuts with shaving anything..

The most fun part for me was driveline assembly :

Techtonics 260/268 Cam Set with oversized valves and lightweight lifters, AFP engine management meant I would have port flashing ability, DBW throttle control, and a cleaner harness layout. 

All powdercoat and polish work was done by Top Notch Customs Powdercoating 

The VF9 Supercharger was a late edition that I came across, I added a headspacer from Schimmel, and the billet parts were polished by TopNotch, they also ceramic coated the exhaust manifolds to give them an OE gray look while keeping the heat down.

Motor component list:

  • Stock AAA Bottom end
  • TT 260/268 Cam set
  • TT 1mm oversized Valve Kit
  • 1.0 HG spacer
  • Mk5 R32 Oil pump
  • Eurowise Steel Pan
  • 42lb Bosch Green Giants
  • Mk4  AFP Management ME7.1
  • VF9 Supercharger, 8lb pulley

Mounting the motor and trans into the GTI I used the S&P 300 Plus VR6 Kit

With it in the car I could get started on a laundry list of things like Wiring, Brakes, Suspension, Exhaust, Fueling, Etc

(Right)I needed a way to get a clean maf reading and some fresh air into the charger.. when the fender is on you cant see a thing…

(Left) The Techtonics Stainless downpipe and the backbone of the mk1 Vr6 mount kit in their new home

(Left) Motor sport bumpers built in house just for this car are now available for your mk1 if you so desire.. These are lightweight aluminum with speed holes for better cooling.

(Right) Making aluminum hardpipes to marry S&P Radiator the Vr6 Cooling system

Speedhut provided the instruments for the interior, and Copelands cut us out a grill emblem based on the Graysons Ladder logo Coolant lines and intake coated by TopNotch

 

 

 

 

 

Time to move on!

With the engine bay pretty much wrapped up we move inside..

Kip Love trimmed out a set of Recaro LS seats for us in a black and white hounds tooth and a heavy grain bolster vinyl to match the door cards (provided by Omar AKA Slov-Werks)

The TR Tower shifter is a MK4 version that we modified to fit our mk1 routing the cables under the car to the 02j VR trans

 

 

 

Avid Wheels provided a set of AV-8 wheels in 15×7,

Quick Everett provided a set of  195/45/15 Toyo Proxies, mounted and balanced them for us and knocked it into alignment for us.

 

We had the raffle on April 26 at the Golf Fore Grayson Event, held at the Ooltewah Club in Ooltewah, TN

 

The Car will be picked up by its new owner on or about the 26th of May.. Thank you to all who participated or supported in this event!! We were able to write a check to Graysons Ladder for $22,500 from the  ticket sales and a couple outside donations!

 

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Building a Wood Slat Mk1 Roof Rack

You’ve seen them. A vintage coke cooler on top of a wood slat roof rack, on the right car, its perfect..

 

I have made a few over the years ( I like them best on Jettas personally).  A few years ago I had some purpose built towers made to hold the roof rack as tight to the top of the car as possible, making it more aerodynamic (or aero-dramatic, same same)  
These are made from 304 Stainless, so you can run them in a raw finish, polish them, or have them coated, but you don’t have to worry about them rusting.

 

You can pick up a pair here  to start your rack project.

 

 

 

 

Now onto my Jetta and its new roof fixture.

 

I made my crossbars from some aluminum flat bar that I had bent to a 2.0″ ID and 1/2″ legs, but you could use some channel, or rectangle tube, even some hardwood like oak, teak, walnut etc..

I made the cross bars 40″ long, that keeps it from sticking out over the drip rails of the car and risking my clumsy ass from splitting my head open getting in and out..

You can see there is some room to make them alittle longer but this works out well for the spacing I wanted.

Off to homedepot for some cedar, 6-7 1x3x8 boards, my poor mk6 tdi has to be a truck sometimes.. 

Back at the shop I cut the boards down to 48″ and 2 to 41″

 

The next bit is to get the spacing you want, I ended up around 1.75″ between each slat giving me at total width of 41″ (that will overhang my crossbars by 1/2″ on each side, which helps to bury it where you cant see the bar ends, if you have a taller cross bar you may want to make your overhang greater than 1/2″ but I wouldn’t exceed about 1/3rd the width of your slat.

After your have the spacing you’re happy with, sand/prep your slats for stain/paint/sealer.  I rolled all the edges of mine with a palm sander to ease some of the sharp cut edges off and make them a bit more “weathered”

 

Now you are ready to glue and screw/nail/staple your boards to the wooden cross bar (if you’re not using a wooden top cross bar, you’re ready to stain/paint/seal your strips and attach them each individually to your tower cross bar) I glued mine and used a galvanized 1-1/4 crown staple to attach the slats to the wooden cross board. You also could use screws from the bottom side (so they are hidden).

 

 

 

Now I needed to stain my assembly (Staining after allows the glue to adhere to the wood and not to the sealer) I used a thompsons water based sealer for fences and decks, I had some left over from my summer deck project last year.

 

 

 

 

 

Last thing to do is to attach the unit to the cross bars, I counter sunk some M8 allen head screws, and tapped my cross bar for m8x1.25 in 4 places, drilling all the way through both layers of the roof rack.  Use a locking nut from the bottom for added security against the bolts backing out with vibration.

Time to throw some gear on top and cruise around, one of my favorite parts of a roof rack is opening the sunroof, you get the wind, and the open air feel, without being baked by the sun.

 

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Mk1 “Motorsport” Bumpers

Well, after looking at the options on the market for aftermarket Mk1 style bumpers, I couldn’t find what I was looking for. So I made what I needed. A lightweight bumper, all metal (aluminum) with welded end caps (nothing to break or fall off) with holes allowing air through the lower grills in the core support. Some of the smaller bumpers close this off with their fit to the body.

These bumpers are hand formed in house, from laser cut 10ga aluminum blanks, they are currently available for these MK1 models:  See them in the webstore

  • Rabbit – no turn signal cutouts
  • Cabby – no turn signal cutouts
  • Jetta – no turn signal cutouts

 

coming soon

Caddy

Scirocco

* these bumpers have not been certified to pass any DOT, NHSA, and probably cause cancer in California, – seriously though, they are sturdier than the plastic eurobumpers, and waaaay lighter than the original bumpers.

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Mk1 02a 02j Mk3 and MK4 Motor Swap Tips

I made a couple hardware overviews for our trans mounts, and engine swap kits, and I still have a few questions that I either didn’t address in one video or a tip I forgot, I am going to add a couple more videos soon, but this may make finding the info you’re looking for a little easier, if you have questions before during or after install please feel free to email me! Sal@s-pautomotive.com

 

General install Tips:

  • Press your bushings in before you mount the brackets onto the motor or chassis
  • If you have an 02j trans the upper trans mount holes are threaded, you need to drill them out to use the hardware provided
  • Grease the inner speedo cable with a silicone grease before installing!
  • I find it easier to set the radiator in the core support before I install the motor – but not bolt it down
  • For a cleaner install on a motor if you’re not using the AC/PS systems, (external WP motors ABA, HU, AEB cant be cut as much due to the waterpump) cut the bracket off just below the alternator mounting points to the block. (ALHs you will cut the PS off the top)
  • Always start all the bolts in a bracket, manifold,cover etc before tightening any of them down
  • If you are using the mk1 fuel lines, the best place to cut them I have found is just before the cross behind the steering knuckle, you can carefully hand bend them up toward the passenger strut tower and trim again to your desired length
  • Work the exhaust system from front to back, hang everything loose in the clamps and work each section into final placement front to back as well
  • If you’re using one of our harnesses the “Trigger” needs to have power in both the key positions START and RUN – this is often the problem for a no start, someone didn’t check that the wire they chose had power during the crank key cycle. A good source for this is your former coil power wire on gasoline cars, on diesels the injection pump power wire works well.

 

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Mk1 Vr6 Hardware Videos and Install Tips

I made a couple hardware overviews for our MK1 Vr6 kits, and I still have a few questions that I either didn’t address in one video or a tip I forgot, I am going to add a couple more videos soon, but this may make finding the info you’re looking for a little easier, if you have questions before during or after install please feel free to email me! Sal@s-pautomotive.com

 

General install Tips:

  • Press your bushings in before you mount the brackets onto the motor or chassis
  • If you have an 02j trans the upper trans mount holes are threaded, you need to drill them out to use the hardware provided
  • Grease the inner speedo cable with a silicone grease before installing!
  • I find it easier to set the radiator in the core support before I install the motor – but not bolt it down
  • For a cleaner install on a AAA motor if you’re not using the AC/PS systems cut the bracket off just below the alternator mounting points to the block.
  • Always start all the bolts in a bracket, manifold,cover etc before tightening any of them down
  • If you are using the mk1 fuel lines, the best place to cut them I have found is just before the cross behind the steering knuckle, you can carefully hand bend them up toward the passenger strut tower and trim again to your desired length
  • Work the exhaust system from front to back, hang everything loose in the clamps and work each section into final placement front to back as well
  • If you’re using one of our harnesses the “Trigger” needs to have power in both the key positions START and RUN – this is often the problem for a no start, someone didn’t check that the wire they chose had power during the crank key cycle. A good source for this is your former coil power wire on gasoline cars, on diesels the injection pump power wire works well.

 

 

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Wiring Harness Questions and Mailing Instructions

 

 

Planning on sending us your harness or ECU? Take a quick glance over this page, making sure that you have everything sent to us at the same time, to help expedite your order.

Please fill out our Mail In Request Form.   Mail the package with the form inside, to the address listed on the form..

What type of harness do I have?

Most pre 1999.5 engines

  • Engine Control Unit (ECU). (Most mk3)
  • mk3ecu
  • Harness from Engine to ECU.
  • mk3harness
  • Accelerator Pedal connector with at least 10 cm of wire. (TDI ONLY)
  • mk3mk4 pedal (Left: Mk3; Right Mk4)
  • If you want to convert to a mk4 style pedal for your mk3 TDI just let us know, its easier to get replacement pedals, and we have a bolt in bracket from your MK4 to MK1 accelerator pedal.
  • mk1DBW1

 

Engine Control Unit Engine harness Accelerator pedal plug (MK3 style)

mk3tdiplug

 

If you are missing some of these items, no problem! We usually can supply them to you at a reasonable cost.

 

Most post 1999.5 engines

  • Engine Control Unit (ECU)
  • mk4 ecu
  • Large connector ECU Harness, has 4 or 5 colored plugs to rain tray plenum, (or under the beetle dash cap)
  • mk4body harness mk4bodyharness2
  • Small connector ECU Harness has the majority of the connections to the engine.
  • mk4engineharness
  • Glow Plug Relay (TDI Swaps only) with it’s base and at least 6″ of wire. (pictured is an 02-up, pre-02 is under the dash)
  • 02up glow plug relay
  • Accelerator Pedal connector with at least 6″ of wire. (pictured on the left is the mk3 connector, Right is the mk4 connector)
  • mk3 mk4 pedal harness

If you are missing some of these items, no problem! We usually can supply them to you at a reasonable cost.

Other parts you will need You will need these parts to complete your installation. However, we don’t need them to work on your wire harness, so please don’t send these parts to us, unless you just enjoy paying for shipping costs..

  • Accelerator pedal (mk4 on the right, mk3 on the left)
  • mk3mk4 pedal
  • Turbo control valve (N75) (gas 1.8t on left, TDI on right)
  • gasn75 tdin75
  • EGR control valve (N18) *
  • tdi egr tdi egr asv
  • Intake Manifold Flap Valve  *
  • tdi asv
  • Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor
  • tdimap
  • Intercooler
  • tdiintercooler
  • Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor *
  • tdimaf

 

 

* To make your installation process simpler for you, we can delete these items from your harness. However check local laws before doing so as you may not be able to pass certain emission tests.

 

How to remove your harness – 

 

 

How to correctly send us your wire harness

 

The fastest and cheapest way to send a wire harness is with the Post Office. If you live outside of the USA, you will more than likely have to fill out a customs declaration form, this process is quite simple! An important note: you are not selling us these parts, rather you are sending them for repair and to be returned! So when filling out the form simply write: Automotive wire harness sent for repair, no commercial value. In the value field, put one dollar. In the insurance field, insure it for whatever amount you feel comfortable with.

To help us plan our time around the arrival of your harness please forward the tracking information to our email.

If you insist on sending with a courier such as UPS / Fed­Ex you will be 100% responsible for all fees incurred.

What happens when the harness gets here?

Before starting the harness we will email you to ensure both parties are on the same page. If there are any missing parts or concerns that we may have with the harness, this will be discussed before any work commences. The harness will be sent back and labeled as a “repaired automotive wire harness.” Again, if you have any questions or concerns, please let us know!

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Davids 81 Scirocco

David called and said his 16v was making some “extra” noise, which he believed to be a rod bearing that took an unscheduled leave of absence..  David is from the great white north and had the car shipped down to us to look it over and try to come up with a game plan for his best options moving forward.  We weighed rebuilding the 16v, adding modern fuel management, even forced induction.  After several conversations about options he actually decided that a VR6 would be a nice mid ground to having a NA car, with modern injection control, and a fun to drive powerband.

So I got to work:

Ok, so I had to take advantage of the fact there were 3 red roccos here at the same time..

Now I really got to work…

With the old 16v out, the bay had a few issues from previous owners, while I do not sell myself as a paint and body shop, I will make repairs and spray an engine bay for a customer.

Back side of the repairs seam sealed and ready for service.
With the holes fixed, the bay was ready to paint.

A new coat of paint goes a long way in an old engine bay.

Onto getting the new driveline ready, I had an 04 touareg motor with under 80k on it.  With a touareg motor into a tranverse chassis there are a few pieces you need to swap from either a 2.8 BDF or mk4 r32 motor.  Oil filter housing, oil pump and pan,  exhaust manifolds, accessory bracket (if you want to keep AC, otherwise you can use the treg bracket and accessories) lower timing cover needs to be ground down to clear the trans.

As a rule I always replace service or wear items on a motor before I install it,  so this motor got chains, guides, rear main seal, plugs, coil packs, waterpump, water transfer pipe, thermostat housing, thermostat, valve cover and manifold gaskets.

With all of that done, I was ready to fit the motor.

As you can see the radiator is in before I fit the motor, I cover this in our install videos but this gets overlooked more often than I’d like to hear about.   I am using one of the S&P Mk1 Vr6 radiators with a single fan and a 70c fan switch.

David insisted that we find an Audi intake manifold to dress the motor up a bit over the boring Touareg manifold,  good call on his part, looks great on top of the VR lump.

I knocked out a hidden MAF intake, a remote fill bottle for the coolant system which finished off the plumbing to the radiator and heater core.  These along with the valve cover and upper strut brace got a wrinkle black powder coated finish from TopNotchCustoms located here in town.

Onto wiring,  as with many of these cars the wiring had been touched by alot of people, and they all left their mark..

I removed a lot of the old management wiring, some was even left from the 81 motor that was long gone,  there were abandon relays, multiple wire taps for radios or accessories at some point.  All of it needed to go and start with just what was needed for the current setup in the car.

With the interior wiring in a better place, I moved onto the battery which was moved to the back, using an S&P Battery Box I mounted the Optima Red Top into place with a main breaker mounted on the box itself, this prevents having a 2ga torch running the length of the car if you have a short between the battery and the fusebox/starter/alternator junction point.

The original headlights were tired, I installed some LED low beams and h4 high beams with a pair of Hella relays to keep the load off the switch, this also gave me time to put the face back on the ‘rocco.

Time to get under the car and install the exhaust system. Using a 2.5″ stainless kit from TT with a Borla muffler gets the VR notes out in the perfect way without getting that drone while cruising the highway.

Onto suspension brakes and bearings, I installed a set of Mk1 Solowerks Coilovers  along with new bearings into the ‘rocco spindles, the car was already setup for 10.1″ 16v brakes so just a hardware refresh was needed there.

The seatbelt retracts were sticky, and unresponsive so we sent them out to Safety Restore and had them install some red belts for a bit of color on the inside, David once again was right, it looks great without being LOUD.

With all the safety issues covered it was ready for some road tests.

With all the safety issues covered it was ready for some road tests.

Exhaust Video

Driving Video

I was able to take it to a local show before it had to be loaded up and head home to the Great White North.

This has been one of my personal favorites, its not overstated, its not slammed beyond function, its a ton of fun to drive (yes even in the corners thanks to sway bars and reasonable ride height), it sounds great, it looks good enough to be brought to any GTG or show, but doesn’t have brand new don’t touch me with anything but a diaper paint.  Overall a well sorted car, I hope David gets many years of enjoyment out of it.

Parts available from S&P

Mk1 Vr6 Hardware Kit – Base

Cable Clutch Kit 

S&P Radiator – Vr6 Mk1

Vr6 AAA Based coolant hoses

Tach Adapter

Speedo Cable

Mk1 SS Exhaust

MK1 Vr6 24v downpipe

Solowerks Coilovers

Wiring Services

S&P Battery Box

LUK clutch kit

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Bruce’s Black 84 GTI

 

Bruce wasn’t a euro guy, that was until he happened across an 84 GTI that needed some love.  Unfortunately some shady people took advantage of Bruce’s good nature and after starting on a 1.8t swap, his car sat and alot of the parts were “missing” .

He brought it to me and after assessing the missing parts, and the general state of the car he decided that he would rather start over with a different driveline and settled on a 12v VR6 that I serviced up with new chains, guides, ignition wires, plugs, new gaskets, fresh clutch and then bolted the S&P Vr6 hardware kit to the VR lump and set it into the mk1 shell.

The car also got a fresh set of 9.4″ gti brakes, a full set of Solowerks Mk1 coilovers and strut mounts.  We cleaned up some chassis wiring issues and sent it home with Bruce, he says he enjoys the look on mustang drivers faces when they cant shake the little mk1 econobox..

A few pics of the install below..

 

S&P Parts Used On The MK1 VR6 Build

MK1 VR6 Bolt in Conversion Kit

Mk1 VR6 Radiator

SoloWerks Mk1 Coilovers

Mk1 Mk2 MK3 VR6 Hidden MAF Intake Pipe and Filter

VR6 Flywheel and Clutch Kits Stock to Stage 4

Mk1 12v Vr6 Downpipe

Mk1 Mk2 02A 02J CABLE CLUTCH CONVERSION Kit

MK1 SHIFT LINKAGE KIT