I made a couple hardware overviews for our MK1 Vr6 kits, and I still have a few questions that I either didn’t address in one video or a tip I forgot, I am going to add a couple more videos soon, but this may make finding the info you’re looking for a little easier, if you have questions before during or after install please feel free to email me! Sal@s-pautomotive.com
General install Tips:
Press your bushings in before you mount the brackets onto the motor or chassis
If you have an 02j trans the upper trans mount holes are threaded, you need to drill them out to use the hardware provided
Grease the inner speedo cable with a silicone grease before installing!
I find it easier to set the radiator in the core support before I install the motor – but not bolt it down
For a cleaner install on a AAA motor if you’re not using the AC/PS systems cut the bracket off just below the alternator mounting points to the block.
Always start all the bolts in a bracket, manifold,cover etc before tightening any of them down
If you are using the mk1 fuel lines, the best place to cut them I have found is just before the cross behind the steering knuckle, you can carefully hand bend them up toward the passenger strut tower and trim again to your desired length
Work the exhaust system from front to back, hang everything loose in the clamps and work each section into final placement front to back as well
If you’re using one of our harnesses the “Trigger” needs to have power in both the key positions START and RUN – this is often the problem for a no start, someone didn’t check that the wire they chose had power during the crank key cycle. A good source for this is your former coil power wire on gasoline cars, on diesels the injection pump power wire works well.
Almost everyone has seen one, whether or not they knew it was a purpose built car and not an accident, who knows…
In 1996 Volkswagen built a small batch of cars for a promotional purpose. They were built on a 4 door Golf GL chassis, the only real interior difference was the seat upholstery, it was the same fabric used in the “joker” trim on European models of the same era. The outside is where the “magic” happened, VW took panels from 4 base color cars (Red, Blue, Green and Yellow) and swapped the removable panels between the other base color cars, leaving you with a very loud exterior.
Fast forward to 2015, and I have an opportunity to buy a very sad, yellow base harlequin locally. It had been resprayed at some point to be all yellow, but the colored panels were peeking through the worn paint. The driveline was tired, the interior was beyond tired, it was time for either a restoration, or euthanasia…
I sent the car off in pieces to my local painter, he began smoothing out life’s abuses and owners neglect, fixing shopping cart dings, and poorly placed jack stands. We needed a new hatch, or at least a tub that wouldn’t fall out every time you closed the hatch or went over a bump.
I found someone parting a 4 door golf, that had a lot of Euro market parts, hatch, bumpers, core supports, rebars, etc. We took it all.
Next on the list was the interior, after looking and not finding anyone wanting to sell their limited edition seats, I spoke with Kip at Loves Trim Shop and worked out a plan for some new threads. Mk2 Recaros on mk3 bases, leather wrapped, suede inlays and stitching to match the colors outside, without making the interior too loud to enjoy driving it.
That left me to get started on the driveline, the stock ABA was no different in the harlequin cars than it was in a standard Golf GL.
I had a 2.8 24v from a GTI that was wrecked, I had the machine shop go through the block, hone and a ring job, new bearings, new chains, guides, gaskets etc.
I couldn’t help myself, since I had it all in pieces I painted each section of the motor in the matching colors of the car, engine block, head, upper timing cover, lower timing cover, valve cover, intake, accessories, brackets…
I was seeing spots from all of the painting and planning.
Now that the car had been painted back to its original colors, engine painted and assembled and interior back from Love’s, it was time to make it a whole car again.
This is always the fun part, assembly is very gratifying.
Since the interior itself wasn’t very “loud”, Brandon Rosensteel at EuroGlow made an overlay for me.
Once the car was fully assembled, we could enjoy the best part of a vr6 swap – DRIVING!
During this build, a lady had contacted me about wanting to purchase the car when it was done. That is another story all together and arguably better than the one I just told you.
She and “Polly” now are in the Knoxville area, so if you see them, say hello!
Matt wanted to be able to jump in his Scirocco and drive it everyday, without worrying about the failing CIS system leaving him on the side of the road. To overhaul the 1.8 and rebuild the CIS system was a realistic option, however after looking at the cost of the rebuild he realized he was well on his way to a later model motor swap. Even better. Better mileage from an 02 controlled fuel system, more power, easier to find parts. Win-win!
On to the evidence!!
Slightly better after a washing!
Ready to Paint!
Our MK1 VR6 motor mounts ready to go!
Integrated Cable Boss on our mk1 02a mounts, we also offer a smooth version for our mk1 hydro kit
Its ready to go home!
Mk1 Vr6 Scirocco conversion, stainless shift rod kit, full 2.5″ stainless exhaust, silicone coolant lines, hidden 3″ maf intake pipe, 2.25″ tucked radiator with fan and shroud. everything you need to have a fun in your mk1!
Interested in installing one into your own mk1? Interested in having us install one into your mk1?
Check the kit out here !! Contact us anytime : firstname.lastname@example.org
Tired of looking at those spark plug wires on your 12v VR? Running a SRI or an intake without the wire retainers? Install our coil pack relocation kit and using your stock wires, the coil will now mount where the SAI pump was. Included with out mounting bracket is an SAI delete plug for either AFP or AAA (choose which one you have when adding it to your cart.
So you’ve installed your new mk4 powerplant into your mk1, now you are left with plumbing it in. Some swaps (vr6 specifically, the TDIs dont fit well either.) require you to modify the radiator, and finding stock hoses that will work can be a scavenge-fest.
We have used a stock mk1 rabbit radiator flipped upside down, then you have to cap the overflow port, and it wants to leak eventually, not to mention that your temp switch is now across the engine bay and in the way of everything you just installed..
Soo… we went looking for OEM options, found a dasher radiator that works pretty well, unfortunately the aftermarket support for Dashers is very small. There seems to be little to no stock of the replacement dasher radiators anymore. Leading us to our natural course of action, make something that works the way we want.
In about 1-2 months, we will be stocked with a new radiator for your swaps. Fully tig welded endtanks, no plastic all aluminum construction coupled with the dual pass design will help keep your rabbit running cool. Stock mounting pins and core-support mounting tabs are in place. We also have removed the overflow port as most mk4 based swaps have a port on the motor or in the factory hoses.
These will also work for those who want to run carbs or ITBS and are using some sort of an overflow container.