I made a couple hardware overviews for our MK1 Vr6 kits, and I still have a few questions that I either didn’t address in one video or a tip I forgot, I am going to add a couple more videos soon, but this may make finding the info you’re looking for a little easier, if you have questions before during or after install please feel free to email me! Sal@s-pautomotive.com
General install Tips:
Press your bushings in before you mount the brackets onto the motor or chassis
If you have an 02j trans the upper trans mount holes are threaded, you need to drill them out to use the hardware provided
Grease the inner speedo cable with a silicone grease before installing!
I find it easier to set the radiator in the core support before I install the motor – but not bolt it down
For a cleaner install on a AAA motor if you’re not using the AC/PS systems cut the bracket off just below the alternator mounting points to the block.
Always start all the bolts in a bracket, manifold,cover etc before tightening any of them down
If you are using the mk1 fuel lines, the best place to cut them I have found is just before the cross behind the steering knuckle, you can carefully hand bend them up toward the passenger strut tower and trim again to your desired length
Work the exhaust system from front to back, hang everything loose in the clamps and work each section into final placement front to back as well
If you’re using one of our harnesses the “Trigger” needs to have power in both the key positions START and RUN – this is often the problem for a no start, someone didn’t check that the wire they chose had power during the crank key cycle. A good source for this is your former coil power wire on gasoline cars, on diesels the injection pump power wire works well.
David called and said his 16v was making some “extra” noise, which he believed to be a rod bearing that took an unscheduled leave of absence.. David is from the great white north and had the car shipped down to us to look it over and try to come up with a game plan for his best options moving forward. We weighed rebuilding the 16v, adding modern fuel management, even forced induction. After several conversations about options he actually decided that a VR6 would be a nice mid ground to having a NA car, with modern injection control, and a fun to drive powerband.
So I got to work:
Ok, so I had to take advantage of the fact there were 3 red roccos here at the same time..
Now I really got to work…
With the old 16v out, the bay had a few issues from previous owners, while I do not sell myself as a paint and body shop, I will make repairs and spray an engine bay for a customer.
Back side of the repairs seam sealed and ready for service.
With the holes fixed, the bay was ready to paint.
A new coat of paint goes a long way in an old engine bay.
Onto getting the new driveline ready, I had an 04 touareg motor with under 80k on it. With a touareg motor into a tranverse chassis there are a few pieces you need to swap from either a 2.8 BDF or mk4 r32 motor. Oil filter housing, oil pump and pan, exhaust manifolds, accessory bracket (if you want to keep AC, otherwise you can use the treg bracket and accessories) lower timing cover needs to be ground down to clear the trans.
As a rule I always replace service or wear items on a motor before I install it, so this motor got chains, guides, rear main seal, plugs, coil packs, waterpump, water transfer pipe, thermostat housing, thermostat, valve cover and manifold gaskets.
With all of that done, I was ready to fit the motor.
As you can see the radiator is in before I fit the motor, I cover this in our install videos but this gets overlooked more often than I’d like to hear about. I am using one of the S&P Mk1 Vr6 radiators with a single fan and a 70c fan switch.
David insisted that we find an Audi intake manifold to dress the motor up a bit over the boring Touareg manifold, good call on his part, looks great on top of the VR lump.
I knocked out a hidden MAF intake, a remote fill bottle for the coolant system which finished off the plumbing to the radiator and heater core. These along with the valve cover and upper strut brace got a wrinkle black powder coated finish from TopNotchCustoms located here in town.
Onto wiring, as with many of these cars the wiring had been touched by alot of people, and they all left their mark..
I removed a lot of the old management wiring, some was even left from the 81 motor that was long gone, there were abandon relays, multiple wire taps for radios or accessories at some point. All of it needed to go and start with just what was needed for the current setup in the car.
With the interior wiring in a better place, I moved onto the battery which was moved to the back, using an S&P Battery Box I mounted the Optima Red Top into place with a main breaker mounted on the box itself, this prevents having a 2ga torch running the length of the car if you have a short between the battery and the fusebox/starter/alternator junction point.
The original headlights were tired, I installed some LED low beams and h4 high beams with a pair of Hella relays to keep the load off the switch, this also gave me time to put the face back on the ‘rocco.
Time to get under the car and install the exhaust system. Using a 2.5″ stainless kit from TT with a Borla muffler gets the VR notes out in the perfect way without getting that drone while cruising the highway.
Onto suspension brakes and bearings, I installed a set of Mk1 Solowerks Coilovers along with new bearings into the ‘rocco spindles, the car was already setup for 10.1″ 16v brakes so just a hardware refresh was needed there.
The seatbelt retracts were sticky, and unresponsive so we sent them out to Safety Restore and had them install some red belts for a bit of color on the inside, David once again was right, it looks great without being LOUD.
With all the safety issues covered it was ready for some road tests.
With all the safety issues covered it was ready for some road tests.
I was able to take it to a local show before it had to be loaded up and head home to the Great White North.
This has been one of my personal favorites, its not overstated, its not slammed beyond function, its a ton of fun to drive (yes even in the corners thanks to sway bars and reasonable ride height), it sounds great, it looks good enough to be brought to any GTG or show, but doesn’t have brand new don’t touch me with anything but a diaper paint. Overall a well sorted car, I hope David gets many years of enjoyment out of it.
Bruce wasn’t a euro guy, that was until he happened across an 84 GTI that needed some love. Unfortunately some shady people took advantage of Bruce’s good nature and after starting on a 1.8t swap, his car sat and alot of the parts were “missing” .
He brought it to me and after assessing the missing parts, and the general state of the car he decided that he would rather start over with a different driveline and settled on a 12v VR6 that I serviced up with new chains, guides, ignition wires, plugs, new gaskets, fresh clutch and then bolted the S&P Vr6 hardware kit to the VR lump and set it into the mk1 shell.
The car also got a fresh set of 9.4″ gti brakes, a full set of Solowerks Mk1 coilovers and strut mounts. We cleaned up some chassis wiring issues and sent it home with Bruce, he says he enjoys the look on mustang drivers faces when they cant shake the little mk1 econobox..
Steve built this man sized go-kart based off an Ariel Atom, all hand built, no kits or rolling chassis. He dropped it off for a tidy up on the wiring and to add a couple other items.
We took a quick note of what needed to be done:
We got to work straight away cleaning and removing excess wiring and general mess
Now to start the rebuilding:
Concealed under the dash is one of our sealed fuse-boxes we use for large load motor swaps, or in this case, a complete car system:
We also installed a battery disconnect switch, push button start system, a working obd2 port for diagnostics and live data logging.
Interested in a project like this? Send us an email, we would love to talk with you about your crazy idea, and how we can help you make it happen, Steve built this car when everyone said he couldn’t, wouldn’t or shouldn’t. That sounds to me like perfect kind of motivation!
Ryan over at VWDIESEL.NET wanted to build a tdi swapped caddy using our parts. He went way beyond the call of duty and made a set of videos documenting the various parts used, and how he installed them. Check out the website for more awesome videos on keeping your VW on the road. http://www.vwdiesel.net