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Mk1 02a 02j Mk3 and MK4 Motor Swap Info

I made a couple hardware overviews for our trans mounts, and engine swap kits, and I still have a few questions that I either didn’t address in one video or a tip I forgot, I am going to add a couple more videos soon, but this may make finding the info you’re looking for a little easier, if you have questions before during or after install please feel free to email me! Sal@s-pautomotive.com

 

General install Tips:

  • Press your bushings in before you mount the brackets onto the motor or chassis
  • If you have an 02j trans the upper trans mount holes are threaded, you need to drill them out to use the hardware provided
  • Grease the inner speedo cable with a silicone grease before installing!
  • I find it easier to set the radiator in the core support before I install the motor – but not bolt it down
  • For a cleaner install on a motor if you’re not using the AC/PS systems, (external WP motors ABA, HU, AEB cant be cut as much due to the waterpump) cut the bracket off just below the alternator mounting points to the block. (ALHs you will cut the PS off the top)
  • Always start all the bolts in a bracket, manifold,cover etc before tightening any of them down
  • If you are using the mk1 fuel lines, the best place to cut them I have found is just before the cross behind the steering knuckle, you can carefully hand bend them up toward the passenger strut tower and trim again to your desired length
  • Work the exhaust system from front to back, hang everything loose in the clamps and work each section into final placement front to back as well
  • If you’re using one of our harnesses the “Trigger” needs to have power in both the key positions START and RUN – this is often the problem for a no start, someone didn’t check that the wire they chose had power during the crank key cycle. A good source for this is your former coil power wire on gasoline cars, on diesels the injection pump power wire works well.

 

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Wiring Harness Questions and Mailing Instructions

 

 

Planning on sending us your harness or ECU? Take a quick glance over this page, making sure that you have everything sent to us at the same time, to help expedite your order.

Please fill out our Mail In Request Form.   Mail the package with the form inside, to the address listed on the form..

What type of harness do I have?

Most pre 1999.5 engines

  • Engine Control Unit (ECU). (Most mk3)
  • mk3ecu
  • Harness from Engine to ECU.
  • mk3harness
  • Accelerator Pedal connector with at least 10 cm of wire. (TDI ONLY)
  • mk3mk4 pedal (Left: Mk3; Right Mk4)
  • If you want to convert to a mk4 style pedal for your mk3 TDI just let us know, its easier to get replacement pedals, and we have a bolt in bracket from your MK4 to MK1 accelerator pedal.
  • mk1DBW1

 

Engine Control Unit Engine harness Accelerator pedal plug (MK3 style)

mk3tdiplug

 

If you are missing some of these items, no problem! We usually can supply them to you at a reasonable cost.

 

Most post 1999.5 engines

  • Engine Control Unit (ECU)
  • mk4 ecu
  • Large connector ECU Harness, has 4 or 5 colored plugs to rain tray plenum, (or under the beetle dash cap)
  • mk4body harness mk4bodyharness2
  • Small connector ECU Harness has the majority of the connections to the engine.
  • mk4engineharness
  • Glow Plug Relay (TDI Swaps only) with it’s base and at least 6″ of wire. (pictured is an 02-up, pre-02 is under the dash)
  • 02up glow plug relay
  • Accelerator Pedal connector with at least 6″ of wire. (pictured on the left is the mk3 connector, Right is the mk4 connector)
  • mk3 mk4 pedal harness

If you are missing some of these items, no problem! We usually can supply them to you at a reasonable cost.

Other parts you will need You will need these parts to complete your installation. However, we don’t need them to work on your wire harness, so please don’t send these parts to us, unless you just enjoy paying for shipping costs..

  • Accelerator pedal (mk4 on the right, mk3 on the left)
  • mk3mk4 pedal
  • Turbo control valve (N75) (gas 1.8t on left, TDI on right)
  • gasn75 tdin75
  • EGR control valve (N18) *
  • tdi egr tdi egr asv
  • Intake Manifold Flap Valve  *
  • tdi asv
  • Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor
  • tdimap
  • Intercooler
  • tdiintercooler
  • Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor *
  • tdimaf

 

 

* To make your installation process simpler for you, we can delete these items from your harness. However check local laws before doing so as you may not be able to pass certain emission tests.

 

How to remove your harness – 

 

 

How to correctly send us your wire harness

 

The fastest and cheapest way to send a wire harness is with the Post Office. If you live outside of the USA, you will more than likely have to fill out a customs declaration form, this process is quite simple! An important note: you are not selling us these parts, rather you are sending them for repair and to be returned! So when filling out the form simply write: Automotive wire harness sent for repair, no commercial value. In the value field, put one dollar. In the insurance field, insure it for whatever amount you feel comfortable with.

To help us plan our time around the arrival of your harness please forward the tracking information to our email.

If you insist on sending with a courier such as UPS / Fed­Ex you will be 100% responsible for all fees incurred.

What happens when the harness gets here?

Before starting the harness we will email you to ensure both parties are on the same page. If there are any missing parts or concerns that we may have with the harness, this will be discussed before any work commences. The harness will be sent back and labeled as a “repaired automotive wire harness.” Again, if you have any questions or concerns, please let us know!

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Install Videos !!

We have needed to do this since the first day we said, “Why don’t we ship out parts for everyone to put a tdi into their mk1” …

 

Well almost 10 years later, and we have a good start on a video library for using and installing our parts..

 

4cly Motor/Trans Parts Overview :

 

 

Hydro Clutch Kit

 

Mk1 DBW Pedal Install

 

Mk1 02a/ 02j Linkage Install

 

Mk1 Vr6 Hardware Overview:

 

Mk1 VR6 Harware Install 1&2:

 

 

Wiring Harness Removal Videos –

Mk4

 

Mk3

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1980 Caddy TDI Swap

We are building a tdi swap for a customer, he sent us his 1980 caddy, an ALH out of a 00 beetle, and instruction to make it a functional truck, and a great daily driver.

 

  • Alh TDI swap
  • New brakes with rear disc
  • Working Ac
  • New heater system
  • 020 trans w/LSD

 

Onto the evidence :

Getting the truck and motor ready for a steam cleaning, 250 degree pressure washer will cut right through the old grease.

 

Prepping the motor for mk1 install:

  • Remove power steering, trim bracket off
  • Clock Turbo oulet
  • Remove Egr
  • Remove small idler

 

Trimming the cover for the motor mount:

  • Cut along the ridge of the timing cover, then straight down through the relief for the lower roller bearing
  • reinstall and check the fit with the S&P Mk1 – Mk4 bracket

 

  • Clock the turbo by removing the bracket and VNT vacuum pod from the exhaust side,
  • Then loosen the 6 bolts on the charge side and rotate the housing so that it is pointed up instead of down.

 

We installed our 020 clutch kit, the transmission, hung the rebuilt alternator and the new starter.  Waiting on the intake cleaning,  and we are almost ready to set a motor in the car.

 

Motor is IN!

 

 

 

Last thing to do is get the pedal mounted for the DBW ALH ecu..

 

For this to fit the way you want, you will need to trim the floor vent on the factory airbox.. its hard to see in a picture but once you hold the pedal up there you will see exactly what we mean.

Truck is outside for final fluid checks and setting the timing on the pump, hopefully we will have some driving videos from the owner soon!

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VR-lequin

S&P’s take on a VR6 Harlequin.

Almost everyone has seen one, whether or not they knew it was a purpose built car and not an accident, who knows…

In 1996 Volkswagen built a small batch of cars for a promotional purpose. They were built on a 4 door Golf GL chassis, the only real interior difference was the seat upholstery, it was the same fabric used in the “joker” trim on European models of the same era.  The outside is where the “magic” happened, VW took panels from 4 base color cars (Red, Blue, Green and Yellow) and swapped the removable panels between the other base color cars, leaving you with a very loud exterior.

 

Fast forward to 2015, and I have an opportunity to buy a very sad, yellow base harlequin locally.  It had been resprayed at some point to be all yellow, but the colored panels were peeking through the worn paint.  The driveline was tired, the interior was beyond tired, it was time for either a restoration, or euthanasia…

I sent the car off in pieces to my local painter, he began smoothing out life’s abuses and owners neglect, fixing shopping cart dings, and poorly placed jack stands.  We needed a new hatch, or at least a tub that wouldn’t fall out every time you closed the hatch or went over a bump.

I found someone parting a 4 door golf, that had a lot of Euro market parts, hatch, bumpers, core supports, rebars, etc.  We took it all.

Next on the list was the interior, after looking and not finding anyone wanting to sell their limited edition seats, I spoke with Kip at Loves Trim Shop and worked out a plan for some new threads.  Mk2 Recaros on mk3 bases, leather wrapped, suede inlays and stitching to match the colors outside, without making the interior too loud to enjoy driving it.

That left me to get started on the driveline, the stock ABA was no different in the harlequin cars than it was in a standard Golf GL.

I had a 2.8 24v from a GTI that was wrecked, I had the machine shop go through the block, hone and a ring job, new bearings, new chains, guides, gaskets etc.

I couldn’t help myself, since I had it all in pieces I painted each section of the motor in the matching colors of the car, engine block, head, upper timing cover, lower timing cover, valve cover, intake, accessories, brackets…
I was seeing spots from all of the painting and planning.

Now that the car had been painted back to its original colors, engine painted and assembled and interior back from Love’s, it was time to make it a whole car again.
This is always the fun part, assembly is very gratifying.

Since the interior itself wasn’t very “loud”, Brandon Rosensteel at EuroGlow made an overlay for me.

Once the car was fully assembled, we could enjoy the best part of a vr6 swap – DRIVING!

During this build, a lady had contacted me about wanting to purchase the car when it was done. That is another story all together and arguably better than the one I just told you.
She and “Polly” now are in the Knoxville area, so if you see them, say hello!

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Matts 1981 VRirocco

Matt wanted to be able to jump in his Scirocco and drive it everyday, without worrying about the failing CIS system leaving him on the side of the road.   To overhaul the 1.8 and rebuild the CIS system was a realistic option, however after looking at the cost of the rebuild he realized he was well on his way to a later model motor swap.  Even better.  Better mileage from an 02 controlled fuel system, more power, easier to find parts. Win-win!

On to the evidence!!

IMG_5176 IMG_5177

Slightly better after a washing!

IMG_5178 IMG_5179

Ready to Paint!

IMG_5184 IMG_5189

Our  MK1 VR6 motor mounts ready to go!

IMG_5181 IMG_5180IMG_5182

Motor hanging!

IMG_5201IMG_5202

Integrated Cable Boss on our mk1 02a mounts, we also offer a smooth version for our mk1 hydro kit

IMG_5211

 

Its ready to go home!

Mk1 Vr6 Scirocco conversion, stainless shift rod kit, full 2.5″ stainless exhaust, silicone coolant lines, hidden 3″ maf intake pipe, 2.25″ tucked radiator with fan and shroud.  everything you need to have a fun in your mk1!

 

Interested in installing one into your own mk1? Interested in having us install one into your mk1?

Check the kit out here !!  Contact us anytime :  info@s-pautomotive.com

 

 

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S&P Radiator and Intercooler Stack

We shortened up our dual pass radiator, and made it stockier, 2.5″ thick core, so that we could put a 21×2.5×3″ intercooler core on the top of it.  Now we can add a condenser to the front if we need to, or tuck it all the way under the core support and make some room for that 1.8t log manifold.

We should have this ready for shipment by mid to late February, we are sorting out the last bits of attachment points, testing outlet sizes and making piping kits for 1.8t and TDIs

 

IMG_4771 IMG_4770 IMG_4767

 

Keep your eye out for a purchase date!

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EuroTripper 5 Come See Us In Sunny Florida!!

When Eurotripper comes around in the calendar I am ready to find some warmer weather, tired of the wet and cold, GIVE ME SUN and 70 degrees already!!

So come see us at ET5, we will have stuff to fill your grab bag, parts for your project, and an empty chair if you just want to shoot the breeze.

 

et5

 

Get your event details here ET5Show

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PowerFlexUSA Bushings Are Here!

S&P is now a PowerFlexUSA distributor, we will be offering free shipping in the USA for ANY make or model they offer, and will be integrating their bushings into our swap kits.
EMAIL us for price requests, it will take some time to get their catalog onto our page.

WHY POLYURETHANE SUSPENSION BUSHINGS?

  • Increased Tire Life
  • Decreased Deflection
  • Increased Responsiveness
  • Reduced Braking Distances
  • Improved Performance
  • Increased Safety


powerflexlogo
mk1pf
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Billet Coolant Sensor Adapters

These adapters are great if you are a mk1 owner with a mk3/4/5 swapped chassis and are needing to keep that mk1 cluster working perfectly.. Simply install this in one of the spare locations found in the coolant system, attach the included ground wire, thread your sensor into the adapter, attach your original signal wire and boom, a working mk1 cluster again!

They also work for aftermarket gauge installations for the mk3/4/5 owners, install the sensor into the adapter, ground the adapter with the provided ground wire, install into the coolant flange, enjoy an aftermarket gauge in your cockpit!

*sensor thread size is m10x1*

 

$24.00 shipped in the USA Check them out HERE